Saturday, November 27, 2010

Applying Concealer..... When, how & why?!





Hi Guys,

I get asked a tonne about when in the actual makeup process (steps) you should apply concealer. A lot of people are under the impression that concealer should be applied BEFORE their foundation but in fact it makes much more sense to apply concealer AFTER any liquid or cream bases. There are a few exceptions however.
Here are a few guide lines that will hopefully help clarify some of this for ye.

* When wearing liquid, cream, mousse or gel foundations.....
Apply your concealer after these "wet" type of foundations as often times, the foundation in itself will provide adequate coverage. Also applying foundation after concealer will probably move the concealer and just require you to re-apply anyhow.

* When wearing powder foundation or powder alone.....
Apply your concealer before any powder products as cream or liquid concealers will cake over powders and enhance the problem.

* When wearing concealer alone.....
Apply concealer in a shade that perfectly matches the surrounding skin of the problem area (After oxidisation if applicable) and blend it into the surrounding area. Press a small amount of a finely milled setting powder over the concealer to set.
Brush away excess.

*If using colour corrector concealers.....
In this instance, apply the corrector PRE foundation as the shade will need to be covered and neutralised to blend in with your skin tone. Take care applying the foundation over the corrector in order not to disturb the coverage.

*Eye Concealer.....
I prefer to apply my under-eye concealer after my eye makeup is complete if there is a danger of some of the product (i.e. eyeshadow or pigment) falling down on my under-eye area. It saves you some work in most cases. If I am using makeup that causes no fall-out then I will often apply my concealer before my eye makeup. 
I have found that this is a personal thing so it's worth trying both ways and discovering which works best for your own needs.

Hope this helps!

Take Care,
Siobhán.
xx

6 comments:

  1. I have really bad (hereditary) brownish eye circles.
    Siobhán, what kind of corrector would you recommend for me? I have light olive skintone.

    Right now I'm trying out Graftobian "Soft Orange Neutral" (which is a bit too dark and too warm for me) and "Pink Hi-Lite" (whick tends to be too cold and too light for my skintone). :(


    I enjoy your videos and your professional so much. You're one of my favourite MU gurus. :)

    Thank you!

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  2. Hey:)
    Since you have an olive skintone, I would suggest using an orange based/peach corrector. The "Soft Orange Neutral" that you own sounds to be appropriate enough though I can only guess as I'm not familiar with the shades of the Graftobian brand. I wouldn't worry too much about it being too warm as you always conceal over correctors to blend the colour into your skin tone. Though if it's too dark, try a shade lighter, but try not to go too much lighter than your surrounding skin. Correctors are not really meant to be used on their own. They should neutralise the discolouration and then you apply your normal concealer on top. Just make sure that both are either water based or oil-based to work best together. You can apply oil based products over water based products but not the other way around. Never apply water based products over oil as it will separate! Kinda gone off subject a bit but I hope that helps!! I will make a video about colour correction soon though!
    xx

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks a lot for your kind answer. :)
    I'm looking forward to the forthcoming videos.

    In previous comment I forgot one word. :$ "I enjoy your videos and your professional [input] so much."

    xoxo

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hey Siobhan, I was wondering if you can give any tips for covering red pigmentation on skin. (I don't have rosacea, the skin on my cheeks is just really red and always has been). I've tried green-tinted concealers, and that works for getting the red to go away, but then I can"t seem to get the green to go away! Any suggestions? Thanks so much! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi Kendra,
    I know that must be a pain! Those green products can be a nightmare to cover. Really they require quite heavy products to hide the green. You could try using yellow based correctors on the red and see how that gets on!!
    xx

    ReplyDelete
  6. I'll try that! I don't want to use the green if I have to cover it so heavily (especially since it's on such a large area)so hopefully the yellow will be better. Thanks Siobhan, you're a life-saver!

    ReplyDelete

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